Art connoisseurs, heritage hunters, party people, history lovers - there's a nook for every kind of traveller in Calcutta. A visit to a temple or cathedral in the morning, an afternoon among the cool, silent allure of its museums, an invigorating evening walk alongside a heritage building or two, a rip-roaring end to the day at the city's night spots - it's possible to pack all this and more into a day of Kolkata travel.

All Calcuttans worth their salt (or fish!) have an artist's passion tucked away somewhere in the corners of their hearts. Small wonder, then, that the city is dotted with innumerable havens for art aficionados. Kolkata has also played a prominent role in the development of modern Indian art.

 

The Academy of Fine Arts

2, Cathedral Road, Kolkata 700016

Mention Art, and the first name you're bound to hear is this one. Established in 1933 by Lady Ranu Mukherjee, the Academy hosts an impressive collection of miniature paintings, Indian textiles and sculptures. It also has some fine exhibits of contemporary Indian art, besides Indian weapons! The Academy is also among the best places to understand the oeuvre of Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore - its Rabindra Gallery, contains original paintings, manuscripts and memorabilia associated with Tagore.

Do check the newspaper before dropping by at the Academy - art exhibitions at the Academy often find mention in the day's listings, and are a must-see if you're in Calcutta.
Timings: Noon-7 pm, Tuesday-Saturday; 3 pm-7 pm, Sunday

 

Birla Academy of Art and Culture

108-109, Dr Meghnad Saha Sarani, Kolkata 700019

Situated on what is popularly known as Southern Avenue, the Birla Academy is a veritable treasure trove not just for the art addict, but also for those keen to get a bird's-eye view of Kolkata's Rabindra Sarovar - a quaint oasis complete with lakes and greenery, in the heartland of Calcutta. Its exhibits include contemporary and medieval paintings, sculptures, bronzes and terracotas. Art exhibitions are a regular feature of the Birla Academy's itinerary.

An oddity to watch out for - the Academy is closed on Tuesdays!

Ashutosh Museum of Indian Art

Centenary Building, Calcutta University, College Street, Kolkata 700 073

The museum is located in the Centenary Building of the Calcutta University. This is a good place to go to for a feel on Bengal's artistic heritage - it houses rare collections of art forms that are unique to the state, including Patachitra paintings and Katha Shilpo.
Timings: 11 am-5 pm, Monday-Friday

 

Abanindranath Tagore Gallery, Government College of Arts and Crafts

28, Jawaharlal Nehru Road, Kolkata 700016

This gallery is part of a college that dates back to 1884. It was knows as the School of Industrial Art then, but has been in its present location for just a little over a decade. It is named after the famous Indian painter Abanindranath Tagore.

Besides these, Calcutta has a host of galleries that have sprung up over the years and offer endless delight to those with an eye and heart for Art. These include:

Chitrakoot Art Gallery (55, Gariahat Road, Kolkata 700019)
Centre of International Modern Art Gallery, better known as CIMA Gallery (Sunny Towers, 43, Ashutosh
Chowdhury Avenue, Kolkata 700019)
Galerie 88 (288, Shakespeare Sarani, Kolkata 700017)
Gallery BF (BF, 40 Salt Lake City, Kolkata 700064)
Galerie La Mer (3 Regent Park, Kolkata 700040)
Kolkata Information Centre (1/1 AJC Bose Road, Kolkata 700016)

 

Nightspots in Kolkata

If you stand in the heart of BBD Bag - the square in Calcutta named after Binoy, Badal and Dinesh, three martyrs of the freedom movement - and throw a pebble in any direction, chances are you'll hit a building with a deep bond to the city's history. Kolkata offers a great deal to the heritage hunter, given the fact that it was the capital of the early British government in India.

Writers' Building

It was first built in 1770 and served as the headquarters of the "writers" or junior servants of the East India Company. Today, the refurbished Writers' Building is the seat of the West Bengal government secretariat. It's situated in BBD Bag - a city square named after three martyrs of the freedom movement.

General Post Office

If you're a history buff, and go hunting for the site of the Black Hole incident, your search will lead you to the General Post Office in BBD Bag. Built in 1868, GPO, as it is known to every Calcuttan, stands on part of the original Fort William, and provides no hint of its murky past. Do check out the Postal Museum inside!

Raj Bhavan

During the early days of British rule, when Calcutta was the capital of British India, Raj Bhavan was the official residence of the Viceroys. The sprawling estate surrounding the building, like the Bhavan itself, are well over 200 years old and now house the Governor of West Bengal. It's a must-see if you're in the Esplanade East area.

Shahid Minar

Built in 1828 in honor of Sir David Ochterlony who led the British forces to victory in the Nepalese wars, the Shahid Minar - literally meaning Martyrs' Monument - is situated in the northern part of the green belt of Calcutta called the Maidan. The base of the monument is Egyptian, the column Syrian and the crown, a Turkish cupola.

Eden Gardens

If the name Ranji Cricket Stadium evokes no response, just ask any Calcuttan for the Eden Gardens. It's synonymous with good cricket and with a capacity of 90,000, is among the top cricketing stadiums in the world. The Eden Gardens complex is also home to the Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Indoor stadium.
 

Museum Watch

Indian Museum

One of the oldest museums in Asia, the Indian Museum was founded in 1814. You'll need an entire day, or more, to fully enjoy the fossils, coins, stones, Gandhara art, meteors and much more that go to make up this museum. Don't miss the 4,000-year-old mummy here, whatever else you do! Also on display is an urn said to contain the Buddha's ashes. Just ask anybody on the road for the way to the "Jadughar" (literally, house of magic).
Timings: 10 am-5 pm, Tuesday-Sunday (Between March and November); 10 am -4.30 pm, Tuesday-Sunday (Between December and February)

Jorasanko Thakurbari

The rambling Thakurbari was built in the 18th century by Dwarkanath Tagore, the grandfather of Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore. This is also the place where Rabindranath was born and passed away. The Thakurbari has mostly been converted into a museum now. The Rabindra Bharati University is also situated inside this complex.

Shovabazar Rajbari

No visit to Calcutta is complete without experiencing the Durga Puja at the Shovabazar Rajbari. The Rajbari's tradition of publicly celebrating the festival goes back to 1757, to the time of Raja Nobokishan Deb. The first puja was held to celebrate the victory of Lord Robert Clive in the Battle of Plassey.

Victoria Memorial

Conceived by Lord Curzon in 1905, the marble monument blends the best of British and Mughal architecture. A tour through the Memorial is a great way of reliving the grandeur of imperial-era Britain. The Victoria Memorial is a favorite not just with tourists in Calcutta - its sprawling grounds are synonymous with love nests for the young and restless in the city.
Timings: 10 am-3.30 pm, Tuesday-Sunday (Between November and February); 10 am-4.30 pm, Tuesday-Sunday (Between March and October)

National Library

For that rare book, that manuscript you've only read about, or the document you've been dying to check out, National Library is the place to go to in Calcutta. Located within the Belvedere House compound, the institution is the largest of its kind in India. It is home to nearly 1,800,000 books and documents.
Timings: 9 am-8 pm, Monday-Friday; 9.30 am-6 pm, Saturday-Sunday

Fort William

Built on the banks of the river Hooghly, the Fort derives its name from King William III. A military area till this day, Fort William is easier to visit if you know someone in the Armed Forces. Prior permission from the Commanding Officer can get you access to a tour of the Arsenal.

Marble Palace

Situated on Muktaram Babu Street, the Marble Palace houses a collection of Oriental and Western artifacts. It was built in 1835 by Raja Rajendra Mullick Bahadur. The palace has gone down in legend as the place where urchins and destitutes used to queue up every day as the guards handed out food and money, till a limit of 4000 people per day was reached!
Timings: 10 am-4 pm, Tuesday, Wednesday Friday, Sunday

St John's Church

This church is over 200 years old, about 175 feet high, and stands proud amid the bustle of BBD Bag. The architecture is mainly Greek. You can drop by at this church after a visit to the nearby Raj Bhavan. Do remember to visit the mausoleum of Job Charnock, the founder of Calcutta, in the cemetery here.
 

Science City

Situated on the East Metropolitan Bypass, Science City is a brainchild of the National Council of Science Museums. It's ideal for the tourist interested in the nuts and bolts of science. If you're in the mood for a simulated earthquake or a tornado, drop by here. Also worth a dekko is the collection of live birds and insects, and dinosaur models. A great place to take children to.


 

Birla Industrial & Technological Museum

The original science museum in the city, Birla Industrial & Technological Museum on Gurusaday Road has been around for over half a century. It doesn't have the technological glitz of Science City, but it is still a great way to relive the early days of technology. Do check out the industrial models showcased here.
Timings: 10 am-5.30 pm, Daily

Nehru Children's Museum

It's been around in Kolkata for over 30 years, but blink and you'll miss the unassuming building housing the Nehru Children's Museum. Situated amid the bustle of Chowringhee Road, the museum is a great favorite with children. Most of the exhibits here are quaint, but the elaborate display on the great Indian epics - the Ramayana and the Mahabharata - is worth a visit.
Timings: 11 am-7 pm, Tuesday-Sunday

Birla Planetarium

Built on the lines of the Buddhist Stupa at Sanchi, the MP Birla Planetarium isn't a museum, but is perfect for the traveller in Kolkata who has visited the Victoria Memorial and wants to rest his feet while letting the stars wash over him. India's oldest planetarium runs shows in Hindi, English and Bengali, and if you're there for longer in the city, you could sign up for an astronomy course.

Rabindra Bharati Museum

The rambling Thakurbari built in the 18th century by Dwarkanath Tagore, grandfather of Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore, has been converted into a museum now and hosts memorabilia that will delight the Tagore aficionado. It is part of the Rabindra Bharati University, which is also situated inside the Thakurbari complex.

Calcutta Museum/ Kolkata Panorama

Set inside what was known as Town Hall, Calcutta Museum is the best place to go to if you're in the mood for a story or two. It recreates historic events in Asia through animated sound-and-light displays. Open mainly on weekdays, the museum lies close to the High Court and is a creative way to relive the past.
Timings: 11 am-5 pm, Tuesday-Sunday

 

Swabhumi

Situated on the Eastern Metropolitan Bypass, the Swabhumi is more of a heritage park than a museum. Apart from a section dedicated to the arts and crafts of the soil, Swabhumi has a rather upmarket food court. It lacks the typical air of a museum, but is a must-see if you're on your first trip to Calcutta.
 

Calcutta has a lot to offer the hard-core bargain hunter. From hole-in-the-wall shops that sell T-shirts and jewelery at a steal, to classy arcades in deluxe hotels, there's something to suit every budget in Kolkata. Over the years, a lot of malls have sprung up all over the city, but if you want a true-blue feel of a good bargain in Calcutta, here's where you should spend your shopping money:

New Market

If you stand outside this sprawling market complex and crane your head in the right direction, you might still spy a faded sign or two that still refer to this place as Hogg Market. However, if you'd rather plunge into the heart of the shopping game, here's the best place to start bargain hunting in Kolkata. Shiny plastic clips, faux crystal ware, flowers, fabric, toys, luggage, ready-to-wear clothes, shoes, crockery, candles, swimwear, uniforms… name it and it's likely to be there in one of the shops here. The thumb rule at New Market? Bargain with all your might!

AC Market

If you want to get away from the heat on the streets, walk into AC Market on Shakespeare Sarani. No prizes for guessing what the AC stands for - an icy blast is bound to hit you as soon as you open the doors to this building. AC Market is much smaller than New Market, and doesn't offer the mind-boggling variety of goods that the former does. It used to be the haunt of the upwardly mobile, but with swanky new shopping complexes opening up over town, AC Market is now a toned down version of its former snooty self. Don't let the "Fixed Price" signs scare you off - this is as good a place as any for great bargains.

College Street

Trams, buses, people on foot, rickshaws, cows, dogs - and rows and rows of bookshops, that's College Street. If you're looking for books at a steal, this is the place to go to. A word of advice though - get to where College Street begins and undertake the rest of the journey on foot - this way, you can not only browse to your heart's content, you'll also not have to worry about parking your vehicle.

 

Dakshinapan Shopping Complex

This is one place that's a favorite with college student looking for clothes to fit their budgets. Bargaining is out of the question here, as most shops sell their ware at fixed prices. However, the complex is choc-a-bloc with state emporia, peddling their ware at reasonable rates. A few bargains can also be grabbed at the shops that aren't emporia. The complex also houses a few clean food stalls, where you can stop for a bite after a long shopping spree.
 

There are some places in Calcutta that are one of a kind. You don't need a ticket to see some of these. For others, all you need is an inordinate amount of patience. But at the end of the day, if you haven't seen these places on your trip to Calcutta, you haven't seen anything!

College Street

Trams, buses, people on foot, rickshaws, cows, dogs - and rows and rows of bookshops, that's College Street. If you're looking for books at a steal, this is the place to go to. A word of advice though - get to where College Street begins and undertake the rest of the journey on foot - this way, you can not only browse to your heart's content, you'll also not have to worry about parking your vehicle.

Howrah Bridge

It's among the Kolkata's best-known landmarks. The Howrah Bridge or Rabindra Setu, a cantilever bridge, is forever bustling with people and vehicles, and the best way for a tourist to savor this is to walk across this engineering wonder. Keep your eyes and ears open though - this bridge is high on traffic! You can also go for an early-morning walk and drink in some fresh river air from this bridge.

Vidyasagar Setu

This is the second bridge to come up over the Hooghly. Vidyasagar Setu might not have the nostalgic charm of its twin, the Howrah Bridge, but it does ease some of the congestion on its more famous sibling. A good way to appreciate the beauty of this bridge would be to talk a moonlight drive over it at night.

Alipore Zoo

The bear might look a little grumpy, the Royal Bengal tiger might refuse to grant you an audience, but the rhino here is sure to yawn for you even as the elephant shakes her head. The Alipore Zoo dates back to 1875 and is a place you must definitely go to, even if you're not with your kids. A must check-out here is the reptile enclosure.

Homes of the Missionaries of Charity

If you've read City of Joy, you'll probably want to visit the homes of the Missionaries of Charity. A good place to start would be Motherhouse, the headquarters of the Missionaries, on 54 A, AJC Bose Road. If you want to volunteer some time during your holiday in Calcutta, you can ask for volunteering opportunities at Nirmal Hriday (the home for the dying), Prem Dan (home for the mentally ill and the sick) or at Nirmala Shishu Bhavan (the orphanage).